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Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable.

The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade. This description is meant to supplement the Lambert/Shull book. Ratings are from the book. Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach. P1: 5.5 80' Climb up and stay right of bulge, then move left to anchors. Either this pitch is underrated or the next pitch is overrated, as they didn't feel that different in difficulty.

5.8 100' At start, look up & right to anchors at top of 2nd pitch. Aim for those. Plenty of gear options. P3: 5.7 120' If climbing on 50m ropes, climb more than 120' to ensure enough rope for last pitch. There are no fixed anchors for the end of this pitch. P4: 5.6 150' Move up & left, aiming for the top of The Nose.

Descent: same raps as nose at the base of a distinct downward pointing flake. Using two 50m ropes rap to the 'parking lot'-anchors are on right end if facing rock; rap to anchors between The Nose & Sundial Crack; rap to ground.

Honestly feel like this is a better climb than The Nose. Rationale for the comment if you're deciding to climb either the Nose or Sundial: the line on this climb really is so clean and classic. P1- climb straight under the bulge, move right and pull around the bulge. P2- look up and right at about a 45 degree angle to spot anchors. Then climb beautiful 100' line direct to those anchors. P3- straight through a short but fantastic crack. Beta P1 - We took the direct line underneath the bulge which seems a touch more than 5.5.

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P2 - not sure it's 5.8- (maybe a little easier) but it's fun, well protected and a great sequencing of foot work. Hard not to enjoy this pitch. Crux seems to be ~10' from anchors. Finger sized cams and tricams are important on this pitch. P3 - crack is great fun. Protects well with hand-sized gear. Plenty of options.

NOTE on P3 belay: there is an obvious and very large eyebrow that will soak up multiple pieces at about 90'. We belayed there.

If you are on 60m ropes, this potentially will leave you short of The Nose anchors by about 20' depending on how you send the 4th pitch. We should have belayed higher on P3, and there is a good eyebrow for doing this at about 130' on P3. The big obvious eyebrow will seduce you. Don't give in.

Climb at least 130' on P3 to make sure P4 ends at The Nose anchors. P4 - had to stop about 20' below Nose anchors and setup natural belay. Cost us some time that you'll be able to save if you belay higher on P3. Ended up as a 5-pitch climb (granted the 20' P5 was a low-angle jog over to the anchors). It's still time wasted though. Rappel is smooth and straightforward! 3 raps on double 60m ropes.

Mar 12, 2014.

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